Colors of our skin: The many sides of our story

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Title – Becoming Barbie
When I was a little girl, all I wanted to be was white. Like my doll, I wanted to have straight hair and eyes as blue as the sky. The whole world was telling me that if I made my skin just a bit lighter or my hair straight and blond, I would be instantly beautiful. The day I got my first perm-when I first straightened my hair, I felt like i was one step closer to reaching that goal. But my kinky, curly hair kept growing back and the sun kept my skin dark. Today, I look at my skin, my nose and my hair and accept them and celebrate them as part of myself and as that which connects me to my heritage. I am African and yes, I am beautiful..

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A photographer friend of mine inspired today’s post. Its with great pleasure i share her wonderful photos. Isabella Gathoni, you inspire me :-) .

I am always struck by the beautiful variety of skin color that comprises the African people. Black, brown, chocolate, mahogany, coffee, bronze, copper and even beige skin. What a beautiful kaleidoscope of hues and shades, wonderful to look at; God’s very own eye-candy.

Yet within these shades, we make distinctions. Defining one as prettier, one as slower, another as more savage, and yet another as more intelligent. So strong are our beliefs that entire cosmetic lines have been created to lighten, brighten and clear our skin. Often marketed as skin ‘toners’ said to maintain ‘evenness in skin tone’, making ‘fairer’ while denying any actual ‘lightening’. It wasn’t until I began to travel that I realized how widespread this issue is.

The other day, the lady who helps me clean had a friend getting married. So she borrowed my camera promising to share with me her friend’s wedding pictures. When the camera returned, the images were of a coffee-white bride beside her charcoal-black parents and siblings. I had to ask if one of her biological parents was white. Of course they were both dark, and I realized Michael Jackson was not the only one successful at changing his skin color. Her husband-to-be was also quite dark-skinned; I have to wonder what fate awaits their children.

When visiting Europe in the dead of winter, I am always stupefied by these super-bronzed ladies. They want to be browner, so they spend hours lying horizontal in tanning salons several times a week. And of course we know how the sun-tan lotion industry and Africa’s tourism have benefited from the desire for natural tropical sun-tans.

Though it’s often the ladies that seek to alter their skin color, their goal to appear more attractive accord’s men some part of the blame. I don’t remember when it was that I begun to notice the extra attention that lighter-skinned girls received. Don’t get me wrong, I love my skin; I have never thought to change it. Yet, growing up I was certain that I had the raw end of the deal, it seemed to me factual that light skinned girls were way prettier.

I wonder who put it in our minds that our skin color ain’t good enough. Where did this false belief that one skin is more acceptable than the other begin? Should we fault the European/Arabic colonizers that told our ancestors that they were superior? Should we blame Hollywood that crowds our televisions with images of Caucasian heroes and heroines? Or maybe it’s our ethnic communities that raised us to believe others inferior for having darker skin, being circumcised, loving fish?

You see, classifying people does not end with skin color. A black Zimbabwean friend of mine picked up a strong British accent in her grade-school days. Many years later while working in tele-sales, she was on the phone with a white Zimbabwean farmer when he emphatically explained to her, “I don’t think you understand me, I am looking for someone like you and me…you know a swimmer!” Apparently, black people in Zimbabwe don’t swim. This I find a strange concept, since my father taught me to swim when I was 3.

It is said that assuming makes an ass of you and me. Though we may be unaware of our stereotyping, our faulty conclusions leave us looking dumb as nails. What’s worse, discrimination that begins with bias and stereotyping may disastrously end in xenophobia and racism.

This happened to a Zambian friend while in Nairobi for the 2007 World Social Forum. At the end of a long day, he boarded the bus that was to take them to their town hotel as he had done several evenings before. On the bus he took an empty seat beside an older-looking white French lady who was obviously quite uncomfortable with his choice of seat. After a brief moment, she turned to him and bluntly inquired if he was planning to “steal from her”. She had heard that all black people in Nairobi were thieves!! My friend counted to ten before informing her that he was not a thief and had no plans to start stealing anytime soon. They continued on in silence. And as they arrived at the front of the hotel, he could see relief on her face. She had survived a bus-ride with an African and not been robbed blind.

And as if her previous remark was not ignorant enough, she turned to my boyish looking friend and invited him to her room, asking if he would like to see “how a white person lives”. My friend didn’t respond but along with the other passengers got off the bus and continued on into the hotel lobby. Assuming his silence to be compliance, she waited with him at the elevator doors. They both got in and disembarked on the fourth floor. She walked ahead of him as they headed down the corridor to where the rooms were, and he followed behind her silently. When my friend got to his hotel room, which happened to be only one door away from hers, he took his key out of his pocket and put it in the door knob. The look on her face was priceless. She had not once imagined that they might be sharing the same hotel. Ten minutes after entering his room, his phone rang. It was the lady apologizing profusely while offering to buy him dinner and pay for his stay. To my friend this was even worse because it implied he couldn’t afford to pay his own bills!!

See what I mean, stereotypes can land us into a lot of trouble. And the problem with classifying people is that it cannot substitute for cold hard facts. Not all white, black, red, pink, brown people are anything. People don’t exactly fit easily into labeled boxes.

I acknowledge as I write this post that this is my struggle too. For example, I have a huge disdain for Kenyan-Indian landlords. This originates from numerous horror stories that friends have narrated as well as my own experience of a conniving Kenyan-Indian landlord who stole from me. Yet, the moment I start to say that Indians are horrible, I have to stop and remember my Kenyan-Indian colleague who had to be the nicest kindest most hardworking lady ever, and who saved my ass on many an occasion. You see, one experience cannot take precedence over another.

In October 2009, Novelist Chimamanda Adichie gave a famous Ted-talk where she tells the story of how she “found her authentic cultural voice — and warns that if we hear only a single story about another person or country, we risk a critical misunderstanding. Our lives, our cultures, are composed of many overlapping stories.”

(PS – Another great 2007 Ted-talk is Ory Okolloh’s personal take on the portrayal of Africa’s poverty, disease and disaster that eventually led her to Harvard. She is the founder of Ushahidi and Google’s Africa Policy Manager).

What am I saying here? This is the Internet age; we can do something about the stereotypes we have consciously or unconsciously formed. We can find alternative information. We can read/watch/listen widely; learn more about others. The more we know about others, the more facts and the less prejudice we shall have about them, and about ourselves. There doesn’t exist a type of person that is more beautiful, intelligent, sophisticated etc. than another because of their skin color.

I have seen ‘stop-in-the-middle-of-the-road-to-stare-at’ beautiful people from almost every corner of the world, and I would be hard-pressed to select one beauty over the other. I now know for a fact that light skin does not mean beautiful.

Song of the weekJe suis né pour te louer (I was born to praise you).

As the curtains close on Dakar…

“You haven’t believed God until you’ve attempted to do something that can’t be done unless his power is at work in your life. Rick Warren.”

21 months ago I left my hometown and everything familiar to me and headed out to Senegal, West Africa on a big adventure. Previous trips to the region had allured me to its people, tastes and ideas. I was now ready for a two year dose of its exoticness.
30th June 2010 – “Dakar, is HOT! And dusty, and sweaty, but which African country isn’t?? Plus there r people jogging everywhere and oh so polite, they even apologise when they cut you in traffic, and Vals cooked me dinner, she is the bestest! I am here:-)”

And exotic it was. The sun shone at extremes (of upto 40 degrees) never experienced before, causing me to break out in a terrible sweat morning, noon and night. Being a peninsula/island, the stunning coastal view of the Atlantic was never very far. Everything was artsy and colorful; from the language, to the houses and even cars. There was a mosque and pharmacy at every street corner. The music was loud and dancing boisterous. Preferred dressing featured brightly colored printed fabrics, most specially the Bazin, the local national dressing (a uni-color dyed stiffened cloth embroidered in colorful, artsy designs). Their palates favored a daily filling of thieboudjen (spicy palm oil rice and fish).
“Chatting online – be it a quick update or a real deep tet a tet, a freezing cold yet so refreshing soft drink, free wi-fi, experiencing new sites and Aloko & Acheke (yams % plantains)…these are a few of my favorite things.”

Out of my comfort zone, the first few months were hard. I had read the culture shock manuals and prepared myself for the change, but none of that seemed to have prepared me for the challenge before me.
“The past is so tangible/I know it by heart/ Familiar things are never easy to discard/I’ve been painting pictures of Egypt/ Leaving out what it lacked /The future seems so hard and I want to go back /But the places that used to fit me /Cannot hold the things I”ve learned /And those roads closed off to me /While my back was turned (Sarah Groves)”

Far from my friends and family, I felt lost, alone, uncertain, perturbed. Many times I wondered if I should give up and head back home.
“Somedays i wake up and wonder if i have made all the wrong choices…what if i chose a different highschool or studies something different in uni, or took a different kind of job, or made different friends and had different relationships…sometimes i just dont want to settle for what i got…sometimes all i want is a do-over.”

Somewhere around the 5th month, I bumped into expatriate acquantainces on a plane that explained to me that they too were experiencing the same challenges in Dakar. They were older and wiser, and as I spoke to them something happened…ts like God breathed hope and strength into my soul. I returned to Dakar aware that God who had brought these people into my life was with me, and I was no longer alone.
“i still dont speak french, sometimes i get lost between my house & the supermarket, & the sweltering heat is forever my hot topic. But, i can now get myself down-town, to the jogging beach, and even to church, i can communicate with taxi drivers, shop keepers & the guard outside my apartment. Yeah, its 5 months already; & i’m not saying life here feels ‘normal ‘ but for sure, West-Africa & i are gonna make it…”

And life became bearable. I found an apartment 4 min from my office with an English-speaking landlord, wireless internet and closets!! (Who knew that in Dakar that is considered a luxury) I got used to walking in the sand and wiping the sweat off my brow. My environs became familiar and I learned how to handle the taxi-men. I found a church with heavenly sounding music and made more than a few friends. I got invited to lunches and dinners. Life developed a soulful rhythm.
30th June 2011 – “Tomorrow i shall have been in Dakar for a year, one whole year!! Where does time go to? Thanking God for nourishing friendships, amazing experiences, surmounted challenges, disappointments and personal failure, unexpected lessons and counted costs…i am grateful, eternally thankful for the way each experience has made me even more ME.Here is to an even greater year two!”

And now, Dakar feels like home. I’ve had many wonderful experiences here. I got to travel to the inner parts of Senegal as well as neighboring countries.
“In Mopti!!!!! In the middle of the Niger Deltar…just a couple of hours away from Timbuktu (I would go but i dont think my family has enough ransom). -25 workshop participants, 22 men, 3 women…. – the men’s perfume is waaaayyy stronger than the women’s. -And here is an interesting fun fact, the arid area of the desert has increased over the last 50 years but the amount of rainfall has actually increased by upto 0.9mm a year.”

“Toubacouta is lovely. For the longest time i wondered what tourism senegal has to offer but this is picturesque & inspiring all at once. Outside hotel room looking out at the sea, although i cant see that far because of the mangroves, the warm breeze, singing crickets and mosquitoes i have to keep whisking away are making me nostalgic. Now off to eat some Dibi de mutton in the village nearby (Mutton Choma). Awesome!!”

It’s not that life became easy or the world perfect. There were scars and struggles; a fair amount of tears and laughter, challenges and triumphs.

Gained Weight – “Walked 70min to the Corniche and back, starting the exercise/endorphins-restocking again!!#NeverGiveUpPressOn”

Witnessed God’s interventions – “I would like to cry, like abandon all reserve & let the waters just flow, in a freeing undignified fashion…and in so doing let go of all the meaningless shoulda-coulda-wouldas causing my sadness…but i can’t, i’m at the printers!!! Miraculously, printer’s machine got fixed and my stuff is ready in time for this huge European animal protection conference. At last, i say Amen, even though it’s still raining.”

Discovered the art of Crying out to God – “How amazing is it when I can wholeheartedly testify to the truth of David’s words spoken centuries ago? I waited patiently for the LORD; he turned to me and heard my cry. He lifted me out of the slimy pit, out of the mud and mire.”

Shared moments across the cultures – “I’ve had possibly one of my most favorite days in Senegal. Traffic free out of town trip to a country house with a private pool, awesome food, even better company…relaxation/chilling/peace of mind…just a wonderful time with people that remind me that this world is a good place to be.”

God has given me experiences that have grown and matured me in leaps and bounds. It’s grown my communication skills as I have been forced to work with the challenges of a francophone foreign environment. Time here has also tested my friendships, many of them didn’t pass.
“In life there are some people you have to lose in order to find yourself.”

In the midst of this, I discovered my own voice, and found it to be lovely. I grew a backbone…and got to experience depths of myself that I previously didn’t know existed. I became ok both with my greatness and the parts about me that are not so great. “If you are constantly looking to your performance or the opinions of others to make yourself feel good or worthwhile, you are constantly going to be chasing something you can never catch (James A. Francis) via beckyjohn.org”

I grew a faith of my own, gaining firsthand experience of a God who is present, real and tangible. It has broken my self-reliance, as I have time and again had to turn to God for every need. One thing I know for sure is that I would not have survived Dakar had it not been for God’s constant grace. “All my romantic idealism was a misplaced longing to unite with God. I’m convinced my heart was pointed in the wrong direction. Donald Miller.”

And as this Dakar season comes to a close, I am hopeful that I will take these life lessons with me.
“I return to Nairobi 1. So certain about God’s incredible love for me (something I want to constantly remember) 2. So knowing that He has my back in regards to cash, relationships and any other anxiety producing need (My times and seasons are in His hands). 3. Wanting to live my life fully for Him #GrowingYearningLearning”

Still, the dichotomous transition emotions are wrecking havoc in my intestines.
“So excited to be leaving…yet also quite sad to be going;
Can’t wait to be back…yet afraid to discover how much life has changed;
Having faith that God is in control of the future…yet apprehensive about the unknown.”

Have you transitioned before? Do you have any transitioning tips for me?

SONG OF THE WEEK – Matt Redman – Never Once
Standing on this mountaintop, looking just how far we’ve come, knowing that for every step you’ve been with us…Never Once did you leave me on my own, You are faithful, God you are faithful

At The Hairdressers: A Slice of Nairobi Life (Part B)

….continued….
CCTV Cameras
Njoki and Sharon’s exit gives Njeri time to ask Mama Glenny about her Kisii girl. Mama Glenny explains that the Kisii girl is no longer with her, she was forced to send her away. She says her two-year old child had told her that auntie and uncle drink papa’s juice but she didn’t believe or understand him since she trusted the Kisii girl who had been with her for many years, since Glenny was small. Apparently, as soon as Mama Glenny and her husband left for work, the Kisii girl and Meru guard would act like the mama and baba (mother and father) of the home. Mama Glenny and her husband had earlier decided to install CCTV cameras in their home, seeing as they leave the house-help and guard in the house the whole day with their two-year old child. This they did in full view of the Kisii girl and Meru guard, which makes Mama Glenny wonder what was wrong with them when they decided to misuse her things.

CCTV footage at their house provided visual proof of how the Kisii girl and Meru guard after finishing their chores, would place the infant child between them and watch TV as they sipped wine and spoon-fed each other, just like the couples in the soap operas they watch. Mama Glenny is especially pained that the Kisii girl even if she has problems, cannot come to Mama Glenny for help, since she abused her goodness and broke her bridges.

A new mobile phone
It’s not long before Njoki and Sharon return. Njeri was right. Njoki explained her story to the same KPLC guard, who walked with her to the cashier. By coincidence, the cashier’s supervisor is standing at the counter with the cashier, and makes him do a count of all the money he has, and sure enough, there is an extra two-hundred shillings. Njoki is lucky. Had she returned after the cashier’s lunch break, he would have already done his cash count, closed his accounts and happily pocketed the two-hundred shilling without anyone’s knowledge. Feeling triumphant, Njoki and Sharon head on to the phone shops.

Njoki’s return to the KPLC office at Sarit center also allows Sharon to buy the new mobile phone that her mother is gifting her after passing her exams with flying colors. Njeri has instructed her not to get a phone with facebook, she doesn’t want Sharon to be corrupted by the internet. Njeri saw the deal (phone advertisement) in the newspaper and explains that, unlike Mary, she doesn’t buy second hand phones which cost exactly the same as the new ones that even come with a warranty. Ignorance, Njeri says, often is the reason why people without money remain without money.

The Kept Woman
Just then another client walks in. She too, is a long-standing client of Njeri’s. She wants Njeri to wash and re-weave her hair, but Njeri is not quite done with my hair. This new entrant fits my image of the skinny-tall-kept girl, clothed to draw attention and never -to-be-seen without the high heels and long fake hair (forgive my prejudice). She has no bag but in her hand is a small purse and mobile phone. The phone’s earphones are permanently stuck to her ears, as if to block out the world. When she speaks she takes one earphone out.

Her first words are an apology to Njeri for not coming sooner. She goes on to explain that her Sonko (wealthy white boyfriend) has been around and she didn’t have time. After a few minutes, she asks Njeri, “Kwani watu wanaopatwa na stroke hawaponi?” (don’t people that get strokes recover?). Njeri responds that people do get well. With heart-felt emotion, the client explains that Sonko had to return home (somewhere abroad) urgently because his father had a stroke and shortly thereafter passed away. She seems to know the father personally and is quite sad at his passing. She explains that this probably means that Sonko will not come back to Kenya till around August, so she is going to be broke for awhile. As she awaits Njeri, she decides to have Njoki re-apply her toe-nail polish; she can’t afford to get her hands done as well.

Time Flies
And before i know it, four hours have swiftly passed by. I’ve spent three weeks in Nairobi, meeting friends and family, all familiar to me. Yet these last four hours, Nairobi has offered me something different – a genuine ‘joie de vivre’. I thank Njeri for a job well done, pay for her services and head out onto my next errands.

*Disclaimer – this post is written in Kenyan everyday English, highly influenced by Swahili and other local languages. It’s re-told as observed with only a few name changes to protect the privacy of the clients. Apologies for any toes that may have been stepped on, I have done my best to keep to the facts of what I saw and heard.

SONG OF THE WEEK – CAROLINE MALACHI – BEAUTIFUL DREAMER

At The Hairdressers: A Slice of Nairobi Life (Part A)

Real life is filled with far-fetched characters and unbelievable experiences often all wrapped up in an ordinary looking lifestyle. I love walking into other people’s lives; I think we all do. It’s probably one reason we read books and watch movies, for the short-moments when we transcend out of our everyday reality and into that of another. We get to hear their stories, feel their pain, lament at their disappointments and rejoice in their successes. I had one of those experiences recently while braiding my hair. It felt like reality TV – someone should package it for tourists. Except maybe it wouldn’t work for tourists, because you need to get the language and the cultural innuendos to understand everything that’s happening.

Westlands Market
It all goes down at a hair stall in Nairobi’s Westlands Market. You find these little 4 by 4 foot stalls in most markets in Nairobi. They are occupied by highly-skilled women, who working at great speed produce the neatest, nicest-looking uniform braids. I call Njeri, the braiding lady, early that Monday morning to ensure she has no other clients booked. At 10.30am, after one more phone call to clarify directions, I arrive at her stall. Njeri is at the back of the stall repairing another client’s hair and informs me that she shall be done in a few minutes.

Braid repair is where you take out and re-braid the front of the head. It’s great when one does not have enough time or money to get the whole head re-done. It costs much less, actually about a quarter of the regular cost, and has you looking as good as new. Seeing as she still has a client, I offer to purchase my braids as she finishes the re-braid. We discuss the type, color and brand of braids and I proceed to a supermarket nearby.

When I return there’s another client getting her hair washed by Mary, Njeri’s colleague. Mary must be from western Kenya because though she understands the Kikuyu discussions, her interjections are in Swahili. The sink is located right beside the door leaving just enough room for me to squeeze through and get to where Njeri is finally almost done with her braid-repair client.

The Hair Stall Owner
Njeri is a cheerful, pleasant character. Right away I can tell she’s great with people; there’s constant chattering and playful banter all around her. Several people stop by with happy new year wishes and her phone rings every 15 minutes or so. Most of her callers are friends congratulating her on her daughter’s exam success. Sharon has passed her Standard 8 (primary school exit exams) so well that she is almost certain to be admitted to a National school. Some of Njeri’s friends don’t think it wise to trust the system and therefore are calling to encourage her to visit friendly head-teachers so that if anything goes wrong, Sharon will still have a plan B high-school.

Back-to-school
As we are sitting there, Mama Glenny arrives. She’s one of Njeri’s loyal clients stopping by to have her braids taken out and hair washed. Mama Glenny is in the midst of ‘back-to-school’ errands and has just dropped off her children’s uniforms for labelling at a nearby stall. Its interesting how putting names on a child’s uniform has been professionalized and is now an actual business. Well, I guess it’s a small investment considering the cost of buying a whole new school uniform when it gets lost. Mama Glenny is also looking for places to buy socks for Glenn. She has tried all the usual uniform shops but they have run out of his size. She doesn’t want to go into town as it’s always difficult to find parking.

Nobody’s picking up
Mary has started taking out (unbraiding) Mama Glenny’s hair but Mama Glenny is in a hurry and needs more hands in order to go faster (speed up the process). Njeri calls her other stall-helper Njoki, who along with Njeri’s daughter Sharon had gone out to Sarit Center to pay their KPLC electricity bills. It’s been about an hour and Njeri is worried that something might be the matter. She dials Njoki’s number twice but it doesn’t go through. The third time she dials, a man picks up. Njeri cuts the call (disconnects) thinking she must have dialed the wrong number. But after confirming that it is indeed Njoki’s number, she dials again, this time requesting to speak to Njoki. The man on the other side asks her to identify herself and she gives him her name. The man cuts the call leaving Njeri concerned. Njeri then realizes that Njoki may have left her phone at home, in which case it might be Njoki’s husband who picked up. And her husband might now think that Njoki lied to him and didn’t come to work with/for Njeri every day. Realizing that she might have put Njoki into unnecessary trouble, Njeri tries to call back to clarify the situation. The phone rings severally, but no one picks up. Just as we are coming up with scenarios to explain why the phone is not being picked up (answered), Njoki and Sharon walk into the stall. With a sigh of relief they take up unbraiding Mama Glenny’s hair.

A momentarily lost phone
It turns out that as they were walking back from paying the bills at Sarit Center, Njoki realized that she didn’t have her phone and must have left it on the counter where she paid the bills. Njoki and Sharon walk back to find that the KPLC guard has kept the phone but will not give it back to them until Njoki can prove that she is the phone owner. He asks Njoki for the names of the last dialed and received numbers, which she duly provides, but he is not convinced. He keeps asking her different questions to prove that she is the actual phone owner, until finally Njeri calls asking for Njoki and thus confirming that indeed the phone does belong to Njoki. They are lucky, in Nairobi, once a phone is lost, it is lost forever. Njoki and Sharon thank him profusely before heading back to Westlands Market.

Missing Some Cash
As the hair braiding-undoing-washing continues, another issue comes up. Njoki asks Njeri how much money she had given her for the electricity bill. Njeri is surprised and first chides Njoki for being unsure of the amount of money in her possession. Njeri then explains that she had given her three two-hundred shilling notes totaling to six hundred. Njoki thinks she must have lost one of the two-hundred shilling notes along the way.

You see, after queuing for awhile Njoki arrived at the electricity bill counter and the cashier asked her to give him all the money so he could count it for her. It turned out that she only had two two-hundred shilling notes along with the three-hundred shilling in fifty-bob notes that was to pay her own bill. Njoki therefore only paid four-hundred of Njeri’s bill.

Njeri is convinced that it’s the cashier that has stolen the two-hundred shillings. She stops braiding me and with enthusiastic gestures explains what cashiers at banks and other establishments do to old people or clients that seem unsure of themselves. They offer to count the client’s money, to help things go faster (speed up the process), and in the process drop some of the money on the ground below them and declare the money to be short. Since the client was not sure what amount of money they had before handing it over to the cashier, the client is not confident enough to disagree with the cashier and thus searches for other means to meet the deficit.

Njoki is unwilling to confront the cashier. Njoki’s conversation goes back and forth between being pained at losing two-hundred shillings that she will have to re-pay and not having the courage to confront the cashier. After a half hour of this, Njeri tells Njoki to be courageous and go and ask for her money back. After all, what is the worst thing that can happen? It is likely that the cashier shall try to embarrass her, but Njeri tells Njoki to ensure she embarrasses him first by causing a scene and calling him a thief. That way he will be afraid to steal from another client.

…………………………………continued……………………………..

*Disclaimer – this post is written in Kenyan everyday English, highly influenced by Swahili and other local languages. It’s re-told as observed with only a few name changes to protect the privacy of the clients. Apologies for any toes that may have been stepped on, I have done my best to keep to the facts of what I saw and heard.

Lord, Save Me!

Merry Christmas, happy holidays and a happy new year.

I’m enjoying the novelity of the first few days of the year, as much as I enjoy – new clothes, a new hairdo, visiting new places. It’s been a month since I last posted, I’ve been holidaying. It’s always surprising to me the copious amount of stuff that can happen in just four weeks. I have moved from fatigued and exhausted to centered and well-rested; from missing home to being home and ready to face another stint away; I’ve laughed till my chest ached and I’ve cried till my throat was sore; I’ve had quiet restful days and I’ve had long activity-full days; I’ve felt low and despondent and then I have felt renewed, restored and reassured. Yap, the kind of stuff that has seen me send out A LOT of thoughts and prayers.

Like, Lord save me from “envy”. For some reason the grass always seems greener on the other side. Myself and I are in constant conversation…assessing, comparing, grading….a horrible thinking pattern that I’ve just got to give up. Just the other day I realized just how many of my problems, personal failings, doubts come about when I compare myself to others. Lord, save me from the green-eyed monster and help me see the value of what you have created in me.

Oh Lord save me, from “old habits” – from ways of being that entrap me. Like pushing to tomorrow what I would rather not do today. I cannot even begin to list the number of things that have fallen to this from thesis corrections, to delayed emails to grand writing projects…Oh that I would realize that if I do the difficult today, tomorrow I may very well do the impossible. Oh that I may learn to keep walking, keep working, keep trying, keep talking…remembering that the path I take is the one you have carefully selected for me.

Lord, save me from the “self-destruct” button. Which for me shows itself in anything from drowning myself in DVDs to wasting my time on what-I-already-know to be dodgy friendships. Sometimes it feels easier to be focusing on anything other than the fear, worry, sadness that grips me. Oh that ‘when the mountains seem so big, and my faith is just so small’, I would learn to run toward you, Lord.

Lord save me from “wanting what I want” even when you clearly have different plans for me. I can be quite stubborn; I don’t change dreams easily. Like, I don’t give up on friendships, even when the other party has clearly long moved on. Recently I had an interaction with a long-lost friend that made me give thanks for every day we have not been in contact. Sometimes God really is protecting and saving me from stuff that’s not good for me. Oh Lord, make me grateful for what you have given me.

Lord save me from the “me-first syndrome”, the overrated satisfaction of being fast or first. Oh what folly there is in being the first to discover something, the first to see or know about it, the first to experience it. Lord you who controls my seasons, cause me to live comfortably in your timing for me.

Lord save me from “pegging my happiness to one thing”. Like, I will be happy when I get that job, when I spend time with my friends and family, when I memorize all the psalms, when I lose 5 more kilos. No….no…help me choose to be happy today…to learn to joy in today’s great moments.

Lord save me from the lie that “I am all alone”….for I am never alone. You are always with me. Keep causing me to see you in the kindness of those around me, in answered prayers, in the ever-inspiring coastal scenery, in the extra mile I run, in the movies I enjoyed, in the work I have successfully completed. Lord, help me see you all around me and be confident in your unfailing love and provision for all of my needs.

As I pray these and many other prayers, I am reminded to be gracious with myself, for I am a work-in progress, His work – my progress :-) . Keep sending up those prayers and thoughts to God. He is listening, willing and able to do something about them.

Song of the week – Deitrick Haddon – He’s able

God is able to do just what he said he would do,
He’s gonna fullfill every promise to you,
Don’t give up on God, cause he won’t give up on you,
He’s Able!!

Travel Stories: Durban

Last week, I went to this climate change meeting in Durban they call the COP 17. There were at least 17,000 people there. Some drove but most flew in. The South African government did a fantastic job. This was one of the best organized international conferences on the continent. No offense Accra, I like you guys too but South Africa is on another level. Durban itself is like a small European town. It’s clean (at least the part where we are) with high-rise buildings and malls, well-paved roads, organized traffic and amazing gardens and greenery everywhere.

There was free transport that picked and dropped the participants anywhere and everywhere. The shuttles and buses were organized like an underground metro system with several stops before they returned to the hub at the International conference center (ICC). Access into the center required a badge with facial verification, which I thought was uber-cool. On the inside there were hundreds of meetings happening all through each day.

Then there were the South African volunteers, as polite and as helpful as they come; well-trained, eager to facilitate and actually quite helpful. I was incredibly impressed. The volunteers were mostly college students of black and Indian origin. I guess white South Africans don’t do this kind of thing.

The conference participants were a beautiful kaleidoscope of faces coming from everywhere and I mean everywhere. I couldn’t help but feel like I was in the midst of something special; a unique movement of people valuing and revering the earth and its resources. I find it difficult to appreciate the complexity and wonder of the world we live in without being in awe of God, its creator. It’s truly awe-inspiring.

Anyway, there is way too much to say about the conference so I shall limit today’s post to a random commentary on the out-of-conference travel-related happenings. Mostly because I want to hear if any of you have ever experienced a body search like the one I describe in the final paragraph of this post.

From the moment I got into the airport in Dakar, this trip was full of anecdotal experiences. Like the hour-long delay caused by Namibia’s first lady’s checking-in of 42 pieces of luggage that included an Ironing board!!! Surely, wouldn’t it be easier and cheaper for her to just buy one in Dakar, or don’t Senegalese iron their clothes too? Nkt.

Hanging out with my ‘bestie’ was a personal highlight. She pointed out to me one of life’s ironies. When we met in Nairobi a couple of years ago, her laptop password was ‘Manatee’. (A manatee is an endangered sea-cow found along West Africa’s coast). I remember rolling my eyes at her as I said “Mana-what?” I could never remember the spelling leave alone its meaning; it could have been an alien for all I cared. Well, fast forward 3 years later and I am now working for an environmental organization in West Africa that works on….you guessed right…. ‘Manatees!’ Not only can I now name all the 4 Manatee species in my sleep, I am working with my colleagues on several manatee publications that include a children’s book!:-) Yap, life does come around:-).

One evening too impatient to wait for the official shuttles, my friend and I decided to join another white couple that was getting into a public taxi. South African public transport consists Nissan shuttles, just like in Kenya, that they call ‘taxis’. The one huge difference is that they don’t have a tout. I didn’t know that. So the white couple had to explain to us how it worked. You tap on the shoulder of the passenger seated in front of you and hand them the money and they do the same until the money gets to the driver who calculates the change and passes the money back in the same way it came. If you want to get off you just shout/yell-out your destination and the driver will stop. I found the whole process quite fascinating. And, so did the white couple. They turned to my friend and made a remark oh how strange it was to have to explain to a black woman how to use a taxi. NKT (that very African sound of annoyance) was my very loud reaction. Kwani because I am black I instantly know how to use public transport on all parts of the continent? NKTEST!!

The black-white assumptions did get to us. I suppose it’s impossible to be in South Africa and not experience some post-apartheid culture. White South Africans automatically spoke to my friend in Afrikaans and black South Africans spoke to me in Zulu. I don’t know why we took offense but we did, it annoyed us. I kept saying that in Kenya we are better are recognizing foreigners and not burdening them with long awkward requests in Zulu. Ok, I admit our annoyance was mostly feigned.

Well all those small inconveniences pale when compared to the trauma of the South African airways security search. In all my traveling, I have never been hand-searched so thoroughly. The security lady stuck her fingers into every nook and cranny of my chest and nether regions, and I was in a skirt!! When she was done, my tears flowed freely. I was not alone. I don’t know how one can survive such public humiliation/violation without some emotional reaction. I know we are post-911 but there must be another more dignified way to ascertain security. Has this ever happened to you? If so, what did you do? Sigh. As my father says, travel is penance for the joys of new and wonderful places.

The song of the week is an all-time favorite testimony-song.
Rich Mullins – Hold me Jesus

25 Thank Yous

It’s Thanksgiving Day. I am not feeling in a particularly thankful mood. Sure God has been good to me but I am not overflowing with gratefulness/ awe/ wonder as I should. There I go again, ‘shoulda-coulda-woulda-ing’ myself. When will I ever get that it’s ok to feel whatever I am feeling? That feelings have no morality it’s the actions that follow them that matter. So here I am consciously encouraging myself to remember how blessed and lucky I am. It’s hard to be sad and sulky when faced with a list of stuff that God has graciously worked out in my favor. It’s the 25th of the month, so let’s see if I can get to 25 things am grateful for right now.

1. Work that continues to challenge me in ways that I could never expect. Like right now it’s pretty late but this third world Internet won’t support my efforts to upload an embargoed press-something. Still, I am thankful that this does not happen every day and even more grateful for a super helpful intern.

2. A broken cup. I have 5 mugs in my house, 3 round-mouthed ones and 2 longish ones. I don’t plan on having more than 5 guests at once :-) . This past weekend I felt sad about breaking one of the longish ones. Then I realized what a mighty long time it has been since I last had anything broken or needing fixing/replacement. Considering that I am a recovering klutz-oholic that is something to be incredibly thankful for :)

3. Unexpected expenses that make me grateful for all those months when the available rope equaled the number of days (I come from that culture where money talks are always in euphemisms. Lol.) A major unexpected expense right now is my super costly dermatological stuff that my health insurance apparently does not cover. So yeah, it has very nearly burst my budget, but it’s also made me quite grateful for the many months that I haven’t needed to take it. Instead of fretting or seeing the short end of the stick, I feel quite lucky to have seen God faithfully provide for unexpected needs, month after month.

4. Good working relationships, be it with the media, tailors, printers or my cleaning lady who is really God’s gift to me. I live alone but with the dust levels in Dakar, I couldn’t have made it without her. I don’t take for granted that she is also kind, reliable and goes out of her way to be a huge help.

5. Daily warm tropical weather. I am listening to Nairobians whine about unpredictable rain and cold weather and I smile because Dakar’s weather is as predictable as it gets. It rains only 3 months a year. In those 3 months, it’s unlikely that it shall rain more than 2 times a week. Though the rain is always a scary storm, bending trees and telephone poles, it hardly ever lasts more than 2 hours. The rain floods the streets, but clears up after a couple of hours and life gets back to normal.

Had an interesting experience when I first got here. I got up one rainy Saturday morning intending to visit my bank, a 15 minute walk away. I noticed it was raining, so I wore my closed shoes and took an umbrella with me, as any Nairobian would do. My neighbours chuckled as I walked past them but I paid them no attention. Shock on me, when I opened the front door and found a river flowing right outside my door. I kid you not. There was knee-high, brownish water mixed with sand and sewage rushing by. I quickly learned that when it rains, its best to stay put.

6. Experiencing Important family memories like my elder sister’s beautiful wedding. It was such a beautiful day and I am incredibly glad that I got to be there. Then of course there is the bonus -finally having a brother.

7. Facebook. I should write facebook a big-thank you note for I would never have survived Dakar without it. It has given me a wonderful community, kept me updated on Kenya’s happenings and even brought a few long-lost friends back into my life. Yani, from the deepest part of my heart, asante Facebook.

8.New Dreams. There is something about dreaming that adds a bounce to my step. Just the other day, a kenyan-senegalese couple invited us to their weekend country house about an hour’s drive out of Dakar. It’s the perfect get-away, a walking distance from the beach, with a small private pool and hammocks hanging between mature trees. We had such a lovely time, cooking-chatting-eating-swimming-playing. I am now praying that an out-of-town country-home becomes one of God’s wonderful plans for me.

9. Eating out. I honestly think foreigners get the best deals. Can’t even tell you how many wonderful meals and conversations I have shared with friends at restaurants with beautiful decor, yummy delicacies and superb ocean views. This is really one of my personal joys.

10.Christmas is here – I literally do a little jig every time I hear a Christmas song. This has got to be my absolutely favorite time of the year. It doesn’t hurt that it comes with spending two whole weeks in Nairobi. MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone!
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˚ ˛ •˛• ˚ | 田田 |門| •

11. Literacy. I love the world of words. Song-lyrics, speeches, TV-drama, books, blogs, online journals. As I have visited countries with literacy rates way south of 50%, I can’t help but be extremely grateful for the exciting world of ideas that simply knowing how to read and write has opened up to me.

12. Endorphin-releasing exercise. Jogging, Swimming, Walking and Aeorobic Dvds. Thankfully, my body has halted its sporadic uptake of more kilos, though it has not been so great at actually letting go of more than a few of its recent additions. Sigh. We win some, lose some and still working at it. I am grateful for every time I have won the battle towards wiser food-choices and a healthier lifestyle.

13. Hope. I am not where i want to be, but i am not where i used to be. I see the difference, I am growing, i am changing, i have lots of reasons to hope.

14. Things that make me feel alive. Like engaging conversations, beautiful scenery, a moment of inspiration that solves a challenging puzzle or music that lifts the soul.

15. Beginning to accept the things that I can change, the things I don’t wanna change and others that I cannot change. Like understanding that being lonely and away from home is temporary. I don’t know about other people’s experiences of living as foreigners but mine has pretty much been like the life of an only child. People come and go. Yes, there shall be play dates and conversations with older folk but much of the time, you shall be left to your own devices, alone with your toys and imaginary friends (read: the internet). Though I am still not comfortable with being alone (who is?), I have found that I am not desperately hating it either.

16. God’s relentless pursuit of me. I feel like God has been stripping me of all excuses and pretence till I can see myself for who I am, his beloved child who has so much more to learn and unlearn. I’ve been reading a book that quotes Watchman Nee. He talks of how God works to remove the debris in our lives that stop us from fully living in him. These obstacles may be things we didn’t know exist in us like pride, anger, security in one’s profession, etc. And resisting and arguing with every circumstance just makes the pruning process longer. So instead of whining and complaining, I am thanking God for the challenging work and environment, the loneliness, past hurts etc. I hold on to Job 23, “when he is done with me I will come out as pure gold.”

17.Embarrassing Moments. And boy have I had a few. Misunderstanding the French and responding to a totally different question in public. Or the huge faux-pas of stretching my hand out to shake the hand of a high-level Imam (they don’t touch women). Or once I mistakenly screened a shark rescue video involving bikini-clad women during Ramadan!!! Just remembering that makes me cringe. While of course I would prefer if those experiences were never repeated, it’s great to realize that they have no sting. Perhaps a lot of the discomfort I fear, is really not a big deal.

18. Saddening tragic happenings that remind me that this world is not my home. I am just passing through, so I better live each day as if it were my last, thanking God for this day that He has given to me.

19. My parents who continue to chart an incredibly consistent path of integrity and passionate Godly service. I am enjoying getting to know them as an adult, when things they have always said are finally beginning to make sense. And they hopefully get to come and visit me in Dakar very soon…. ma-excitos, can hardly wait.

20. New born babies. There are sooo many, it’s hard to remember their names or gender, but I am so looking forward to pinching and kissing the cheeks of Peanut, Waithera, Waithera-junior, Hakeem, Shiko…. What an incredible gift of joy they are and oh, what respect I have for their sleep-less parents.

21. This blog that has basically become my online journal that I thoroughly enjoy sharing with y’all. It’s a wonderful way to share life, really, everyone should have one.

22. Talk therapy. I am a talker, I don’t like to brood, I like to process externally. And what would I have done without the wonderful friends, in Dakar, Nairobi and other parts of the world that have listened to me and given me perspective when i have sorely needed it? A listening ear and a sharing heart have got to be some of God’s greatest gifts.

23. My gigantic king size bed that makes me look forward to coming home. I think it’s my favorite piece of furniture in this apartment. When one lives alone, it’s nice to have that one nice thing to look forward to. Oh the number of wonderful novels that have been read while laying on it, it will always hold some very wonderful memories.

24. Becoming an almost-morning person and for every day that I have not needed to force myself out of bed. For the longest time I have said that I am not a morning person. Nothing has changed though recently I begun to see how my reluctance to rise up early might be keeping me from the joys of singing birds, a spectacularly colorful dawn sky, rush-free living, peace that comes with presenting my day before God even before I start it etc. I am making more of an effort now.

25.My phat, fab and full of sunshine younger sister who is celebrating her birthday today. Well, she sort of kinda celebrates her birthday on the 25th of every month, but this one’s for real. As we grow older, we are actually becoming better friends. We talk everyday about everything. Isn’t it great to have someone who knows you since tene (forever) and still gets along with you like a house on fire? Can’t wait to get back to Nairobi and house-share (God-willing, someday soon). Ok, we shall likely fight and bicker a lot, but also have the most awesome fun times together. I wish her a super wonderful birthday today.

See how I am smiling now? What’s on your thanksgiving list this year?

Maybe there is a loving God….

Two nights ago, my friend was attacked in her apartment at 5am in the morning. Some guy climbed over the balcony, jammed a window open, stole all her electronics and then raped her. He stabbed her pet first to show her that he was deathly serious.

I am speechless and no matter how much I tell myself that this is a freak accident (Dakar is pretty safe)…I still cannot sleep for more than 20 min without getting up in a panic. Thankfully, my friend is ok…as ok as one can be. She has gotten prophylaxis treatment and done the police thing. And she is strong, stronger that we all imagined. We are all loving on her and wishing that our efforts would provide an eternal cushion from further pain. Sadly, we know they are not nearly enough.

Another dear friend has also had a traumatizing incident. Her house-mate wasn’t really sick, just coughing which meant she needed to lie down on her side every couple of hours in order to breath easier. One morning she called for help when she had trouble breathing, they did CPR and rushed her to the hospital. It was too late. Her brain had stayed without oxygen for too long. She was declared brain dead. Her burial is this coming weekend and my heart bleeds for my dear friend who has had more than her share of trials this year. I would love to undo this incident and take away the pain of these next couple of weeks.

My mind just cannot resolve this. How does a loving God let bad things happen to good people?

I am like Job’s frenemies…I don’t get it. I am really struggling with a God who was there when this happened. I find it easier to accept a God who punishes sin. Thus suffering, tragedy, evil and violence can be attributed to bad choices.

But this, this I don’t understand. Nobody deserves this, especially not my two gentle, kind-hearted, peace-loving friends. So there is my quandary, a God who is… sovereign mighty all-sufficient…though seemingly sometimes unloving? Surely, could this be a loving God?

I don’t have answers so I am going to share part of a devotional a friend emailed me earlier today. It’s a funny story because i just found out that, its my mother’s weekly devotional. Lol. How life goes round and people start sending back to me useful resources from my own family. You can find the link to my mami’s weekly devotional on the home-page (on the blog-roll to the right)

Balancing Between Hope and Pain – The ‘Schizophrenic’ Worshipper

God sometimes permits what he hates, to accomplish what he loves (Joni Erickson Tada)

The problem of pain and suffering is not a theological one or a theology game of lining up all appropriate logical arguments and syllogisms. As Philip Yancey says, it is a problem of relationships. Unless we understand our situation from God’s perspective, we will suffer more than we need to. In addition, we also need to remind ourselves that as the day of Christ’s second coming is drawing near, we are going to witness more calamities and devastations. ‘When you hear of wars and revolutions, do not be frightened. These things must happen first, but the end will not come right away.”10 Then he said to them: “Nation will rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom. 11 There will be great earthquakes, famines and pestilences in various places, and fearful events and great signs from heaven’ (Luke 21:9-11).

1. Hope and pain are intertwined – In a way pain is a proof of life, of connection and of hope. It is not wise to numb the pain. The feeling of being hurt and betrayed can ‘paralyse a person inside’ if it is handled badly. It is important to acknowledge the pain one feels as an honour to have longings, to love and to be disappointed. There are times in life when one desperately grasps for hope while crying to God and at times shouting at God. Think of Job, Jeremiah or David who were kind of schizophrenic worshippers, asking hard questions such as ‘is God doing anything about the issue that is so pressing’. And at the same time you see acknowledgement of God the very present help in times of trouble, the rock, the fortress. David would do ‘self talk’ ‘why are you cast down within me, hope in God’. Through the tears, and disappointments, acknowledge the fatherhood of God, his love and might, and make your request know to Him (Philippians 4:6).

2. God is in control but there are things that we may not understand – Some things we will not know partly because we live within limitations of our humanness. – ‘The secret things belong to the LORD our God, but the things revealed belong to us and to our children forever, that we may follow all the words of this law’ (Deuteronomy 29:29). However, God does have a plan and has promised to bring to completion what he had started (Philippians 1:6).

3. God in his love does permit what he hates to refine us and bring out the best in us – Pain makes us depend on God and brings out the hidden treasure in us. We need grace for the moment fully aware that God’s discipline is for those he loves (Hebrews 12:5-11). In times of pain and despair, when simplistic formulas or theology cliché’s fail, we tend to become honest with ourselves and it is then that one realizes that, The eternal God is your refuge, and underneath are the everlasting arms’(Deuteronomy 33:27). Pain can purify if we remain open to God’s loving presence in our lives. That is where the life of faith begins.

4. Appreciate the seasons of life – God allows varying season of life to make his people grow (Ecclesiastes 3:4), there is a time to weep and a time to mourn. Weeping may last for the night but joy comes in the morning (Psalm 30:5). Joy is coming.

5. God has given us free will and the choices people make can affect us and others- The world we live in is imperfect where ignorance, carelessness or purposeful intent causes a lot of suffering. If God took away the freedom to make choices we would be robots. God wants us to choose to have a relationship with Him. Some of the struggles we go through come from our wanting to be in control.

Are you going through rough times? Are you wondering how to explain God’s part or role as the earth quakes drowning people and hopes of poor people in an Island that has more unmet needs than luxuries? Are you struggling to hold on to your faith in the midst of secret fears and tears? Do you wonder where God is? He is where you are. God’s word is explicit that times of going through the fire or waters (Isaiah 43:2), or valley of the shadow of death (Psalm 23) will come. The promise of God is that he will be with his people. That is the answer to the question of where God is when people are going through tough times. He is where his people are. He was with Daniel in the lion’s den and also with Shadrack, Meshack and Abednego when they were thrown into the fire (Daniel 3). It is you to confirm to the people who do not know God that he is a very present help in times of trouble. God is counting on you who know that even though you may not see him, you can count on his word that he will be with you always (Matthew 28:20), and know for certain that he has not forsaken you. Looking for help in people can be confusing as they may be struggling with the theology. Look up to God who has the Big Picture and knows what you can stand. Whether it is national disaster or individual challenge, God remains Almighty and loving. He knows what you are going through and he is with you. Is the Lord your shield when challenging times set in?

‘Yet, O LORD, you are our Father. We are the clay, you are the potter; we are all the work of your hand’ (Isaiah 64:8)

SONG OF THE WEEK – Praise you in the storm – Casting Crowns